My sister lived here for a few years so I visited it a few times.
It’s a bit overrun by backpackers but I still love walking along the rocks to the seagull baths (if you turn right at the beach), or to the mysterious fencepost that is supposed to look like mother mary (if you turn left at the beach). the sea baths are nice for swimming in, and the bay is often calm enough that you can do laps.
the food is pretty awful except for a few good thai places.
bits of it don’t seem to have changed since my dad lived there in the 60s, other bits have because of the hoards of backpackers.
the coogee bay hotel is a little scary, but everybody still goes there.