Commander's Palace

expensive, but worth it

Here’s my recipe for doing Commander’s Palace. First of all, do not even entertain the idea of going to New Orleans without eating at Commander’s Palace. The moment the idea enters your head to visit The Big Easy, pick up the phone, dial the 800 number, and book a reservation, even if it’s a year in advance. You will sleep better, knowing that you’ve taken this particular first step in arranging your trip.

When you book the reservation, ask for a table in the Garden Room. Many old time New Orleans families have their regular tables in the Garden Room, so it is important to book as far in advance as possible. You want the Garden Room, because it is upstairs with lots of windows overlooking-what else?-the courtyard garden with its enormous and ancient oak tree. It is as though you are dining up in a magnificent tree house.

On the day of your reservation, arrive about 45 minutes to 1 hour early and tell the maitre d’ that you’d like to have drinks in the courtyard. He is likely to walk you right through the kitchen to get there. (Commander’s Palace maintains this perfect balance between formal and informal. The formal aspect is that you will get the most attentive, steady, continuous-yet unobtrusive-service by waiters and busboys and managers all up and down the hierarchical ladder, all of whom make it a point to discern exactly the amount of engagement you wish to have with them, and then to choreograph themselves accordingly. It is a wonder.)

Once seated in the courtyard, order mint juleps. It may not be what you usually drink, but this is the drink to have, while wiling away time in the courtyard of Commander’s Palace in the Garden District of New Orleans. Sip and chat for an hour, before taking the table you reserved.

As you study the menu, bear in mind that regardless of other items, you will be beginning your meal with their turtle soup and you will be ending your meal with their bread pudding soufflé. These two dishes alone are reason enough to be in New Orleans in the first place. Choose the remainder of your meal accordingly. Their chicory coffee is mighty fine.

Be aware that they have a jazz brunch on Sundays.