My tour of the Old City included a walk along the Via Dolorosa, the “Way of Sorrows,” the traditional route Jesus took to the site of his crucifixion. We started in the cells in the Roman garrision where Jesus was probably held prisoner and then basically walked the Stations of the Cross. Even though I don’t think anyone can know the exact spot the historical events took place, and even though I think much of the story is legendary and has no historical basis, at some point on the Via Dolorosa, my attitude about my whole trip was transformed. I felt like I was no longer a tourist but a pilgrim. It was quite moving.