Turpan

Try the grapes!

Turpan lies in a depression – one of the deepest in the world at 154 m below sea level – and is an oasis near the edge of the Taklimakan desert. As a result it can get very, very hot there, so hot it’s sometimes called the “Oven of China”. It’s also in a wine-growing region, and the Uyghur people of Turpan used that to good effect by covering many streets with trellises covered by vines, providing both shadow and grapes. Even the Han Chinese who modernised the city and in the process destroyed practically every trace of the old town, recognized the value of that and now Turpan boasts modern alleys shaded by grape vines where only public transportation, bicycles and pedestrians are allowed.

Every year, especially in the spring, dust storms originating in the deserts blow all over China and beyond, with Beijing getting getting loads of it (just like dust storms originating in the Sahara can drop their loads across Europe). Although in 2005 when we were in Turpan it was already early summer, we actually experienced a small dust storm there – and it was pretty scary.

In spite of all that, I rather like Turpan where the people are friendly, you can eat pizza with chopsticks, and while there are not many sights inside the city itself (though the bazaar is very nice), there are quite a number in its immediate vicinity, some of which I’d like to spend more time at. Maybe I’ll be back some time!