Kobe

Kobe has changed almost completely beyond recognition. There are so many new, large buildings, in part because of the earthquake, and nothing really looked as I remembered it. When we got off at the JR station in Rokko and headed up the hill, the only thing that really looked like it did 23 years ago was
the local shrine.

I decided that I would try to find Sansui, the dormitory in which I lived when I first came to Kobe. With everything changed, I was sort of uncertain, but finally came to the spot where I was pretty sure it should have been. Should have been, but it wasn’t: it had been torn down and new luxury apartments were being constructed on the spot. I briefly talked to the construction area guard and confirmed that at least some building had been torn down to make way for the project, and I can only think it must have been Sansui. No great loss, it wasn’t in that great of shape – I just wonder if the former landlord, the yakuza who owned the place, is making money in the development of the apartment project.

We then went to Sannomiya, where David encouraged me to find
the place where Leroy’s was. I used to moonlight at this bar, Carribean-themed, on Friday and Saturday nights. I was surprised that I could instictively find my way through the warren of narrow streets in the entertainment district north of the station. Of course, Leroy’s is no longer there; Leroy probably drank himself into his grave a long time ago. I then
subjected the rest of the family with doing a little bit of walking around Sannomiya. Again, it is completely unrecognizable. I think it is not only the quake, but a general economic improvement. If you think of what, say, First Ave used to be like in downtown Seattle, and what it looks like today, well, the same thing has happened in Kobe. For example, the little second-hand shops and flea-market type stalls under the railway tracks is now a slick shopping arcade, with throngs of shoppers and trendy shops.

Convinced I would never find that great sushi bar that used to be in Sannomiya, we returned to the hotel. After some walking around the area around the hotel, we ended up in a small neighborhood sushi bar, where we took up the remaining four seats out of the dozen that were there. This turned out to be a great choice. Emma was dubious about sushi, but turned into a great sport, having one piece of exotica after another. Rose was
seated next to a jolly older man in his sixties who got a great deal of fun out of attempting to communicate with the girls. He gave them little pieces of some sort of clam to eat. He also bought a glass of iced sake for us, which Emma thought was a glass of water. She took a big gulp and turned the place inside out with laughter when she choked and sputtered on it. (David ended up finishing it.)

It was really quite a bit of fun; we had a great time, Emma now eats sushi, and they got an excellent cultural experience of sitting at the counter over a couple of hours interacting with everyone.

Visit the Kobe tower to see a breathtaking view of the city!

Really nice. A small town feeling. The mountain path with the temple is really nice (although I almost stepped on a mamushi). Pity the garden was closed when I visited.

I was there too long ago, when I was little. Don’t really remember what went on, except that I stayed in portopia hotel that had transparent elevator.

No offense, Tokyo-ites. I loved your city, but Kobe is more cozy and less congested.

I learned how to love myself here in Kobe. I think that what helped me learn about myself was that there were no other African American women to compare me to there. I had much fun there.

Kobe is really small compared with Tokyo but it’s quiet vibrant… lot’s of fun and good shopping… Great Irish Pub just opposite Sannomiya Station worth visiting if you don’t know anybody and wish to meet some Gaijin…
30 mins train ride to Osaka… which you can go back and forth…

Kobe is OK, but it tends to be over praised. The city is pleasant, but the best quote I’ve heard to describe it is: ”This place must have been beautiful before all the people arrived.” It sits along a long strip of land between mountains and the sea. The sea is fine, but not particularly pretty and rarely blue. There’s a large beach at Suma, but it’s not the cleanest. The mountain is very nice and worth a trip to the top to see the view and look at the waterfall and gardens.
East of the city centre is a very high income residential area, but the whole place is pretty rich. The city center is very small, has a few major brands in the back streets if you care to look, and just two big department stores. For those interested in such things, Daimaru’s store is excellent, but Sogo is pretty old (food floor excepted which is well worth a visit even for tourists). Kobe also has one of the largest ‘shotengai’ (covered shopping street) in the country, but there’s not a lot in it that’s interesting TBH.
Outside the centre, if you go to Minatogawa there is a very old, narrow set of streets that few tourists find, but which are very Japanese in character—highly recommended, but remember you’ll standout. These are market streets so morning visits are best. For lovers of Japanese kitsch, there is also the winery in the north west of the city, or even a visit to the Glico factory, makers of Pocky chocolate sticks.
Kobe has food like anywhere else in Japan. For the best Japanese stuff, you’ll need to pay a lot, but it also has a thriving Indian community and some of the best Indian food in Japan. There’s plenty of local standard restaurants in the big drinking and nightlife area behind the main station.
Many Japanese love Kobe. The locals usually never go anywhere else, and those that have never been see it as something of a Japanese utopia. Often, the explanations for both are a bit thin though. In reality, it’s not as fashionable as everyone suggests, and there’s far less to see or do than in Osaka or Tokyo, Kyoto, Yokohama or even Hiroshima, Fukuoka or Sendai. I’d compared Kobe to Nagoya in many respects, but even Nagoya is more unique. OTOH, it’s the nearest large city to Himeji which has one of the best authentic castles in the country and a must on any tourist’s list.
Kobe also likes to describe itself as an ‘international’ city. There is some truth in this. It used to be the only place in the country where overseas embassies were allowed (i.e. well away from Tokyo), and currently has a couple of world class research parks. It is also home to the HQs of Nestle Japan and P&G Japan. But, away from the high rents of the east side, Kobe is pretty parochial and not particularly friendly to foreigners compared to many cities I’ve lived in. There are still bars in the centre where they’ll take one look at your face before hussling you out the door. Train rides can be uncomfortable too (in rush hour, women should use the ‘women only’ carriages—and Kobe is the only place that feels the need to have a women only carriage throughout the day). Subway cars can also be a bit pongy, and you may see men peeing in the areas between carriages on their way home late at night—I’ve seen this quite a few times.
But these problems are getting gradually better. Smile, keep your temper, and simply ignore the idiots just like you would anywhere, and you’ll have no problems. Speak Japanese and you’ll get on even better.
Kobe is worth a visit, but don’t expect quite as much as some might have you believe.

I was born in Kobe, studied in Kobe, and work in Kobe now.
I love Kobe!

So I’m now engaged in an activity that aims to prpmote Social Networking in Kobe. It is called “shokobe” project.
If you’re interested in this activity, please ask me!

In Kobe, there’s a place called “Maya Park” in Mt.Rokko. And this is the view that you could see in the morning.