Gertrude Stein's Grave

[For Step Six of the Gertrude Stein Pilgrimmage, please see my entry at: Picasso’s Bust Dedicated to Guillaume Apollinaire behind St-Germain-des-Prés Church.]

The final segment of our Gertrude Stein Pilgrimmage was the journey to Cimetière du Père Lachaise to find her grave. It is my recollection that we picked up a map of the cemetery grounds at a kiosk at the entrance on the south. It was overwhelming to discover the names of so many revered historical personnages, especially in the domain of music: Georges Bizet, Vincenzo Bellini, Frédéric Chopin, Francis Poulenc, and Maria Callas, for example. I had no little interest in finding the resting place of Guillaume Apollinaire, a member of Gertrude’s salon and a favorite poet of mine.

Since Gertrude’s grave is in the far northeast section, we decided to meander at length, in order to pause and honor others who are buried there.

I found the entire experience awe-inspiring. And I felt especially moved and appreciative as I spotted Gertrude’s tombstone. In that moment, it felt as though she were Family. It wasn’t long before I got to wondering where Alice B. Toklas had been buried, never having heard or read an account. I glanced around at neighboring headstones, none of which named her as dedicatee. And then—I don’t know what prompted me to do this—I stepped carefully along the left side of Gertrude’s grave, until I made my way to the back of her headstone. My heart leapt at what I saw chiseled on the verso: the name Alice B. Toklas. They are continuing their conjoint residency in perpetuity. And just look how they’ve expanded their salon to include brilliant and creative people from previous and subsequent centuries, the overabundant likes of which 27, rue de Fleurus saw only in moderation.

[Please go to Gertrude Stein’s Residence, 1904-1937 for the beginning of Curmudgeon’s account of the Gertrude Stein Pilgrimmage.]