David Zapolsky

After visiting Kakadu National Park on a driving trip from Darwin, we weren’t sure how we could top that experience. But taking a day-long boat trip (actually a succession of small boat trips) up the long series of Gorges that make up this park turned out to be unexpectedly satisfying. Absolutely beautiful sheer rock cliffs on either side of the river alternate with peaceful groves of lowlying trees, replete with exotic birds and freshwater crocs. At the “summit” of our trip (we only went up to the fifth Gorge, but one can spend much longer and go up further), we had a picnic lunch and spent a couple hours enjoying the quiet and swimming in the river. (Apparently, the freshies keep to themselves if you don’t bother them.) An idyllic day trip. The only downside to a trip to Katherine is that the town of Katherine itself (several miles removed from the park) is nothing special; in fact it’s a bit depressing and a little scary. We stayed in a chain motel outside of town, fortunately.

A desperately poor country, still recovering from decades of Soviet-sponsored autocratic rule, it provides a welcome alternative to Zimbabwe (which has become one of the most scary oppressive regimes in the world) for tourists wishing to see Victoria Falls. There is a fairly luxurious resort complex on the Zambian side of the falls, with excursions to nearby native villages, boat trips up the Zambeze river (where the picture of me was taken), and day trips to nearby spectacular Chobe National Park in Botswana.

We spent Christmas of 2004 there. Our entire visit to the falls area was memorable, but the three experiences that stand out the most were (1) our hotel-sponsored tourist visit to a local native village, filled with hundreds of Zambians living in desperate poverty in grass huts, many of them with AIDS; (2) our questionable decision to hike across the Victoria bridge and cross into Zimbabwe (complete with hostile customs agents and AK-47 toting guards) to have tea at the famous British institution, the Victoria Falls Hotel (I now feel guilty about spending any of our money in that country and don’t recommend it); and (3) our day trip into Chobe National Park in nearby Botswana, which was breathtaking for its wildlife and beauty.

A Soweto fixture for tourists and locals alike.