Our backpack was stolen off a bus in Kunming, leaving us without plane tickets or camera; but the trip up from Kunming to Dali and Lijiang was still amazing. Yes, very much on the tourist trail, but enjoyable nonetheless.
We traveled to Sichuan for the express purpose of eating Sichuan food. (We were living in Shanghai at the time.) It sounds precious and colonial to say it, but honest to god, there is nothing like eating Sichuan food in Sichuan. Nothing.