herflet

There are a lot of things to complain about, but the reason this is hell is the level of hypocrisy here is through the roof. Good people, rigid standards, out of sync with reality. And the food is not good.

and I’ve sailed the wild ocean

with the wind at my back

and the storms in my hand

and I’ve crossed to the dead lands

and found my way back

I don’t care about my horrid siblings, who pretty much ruined my trip, but I did make friends with a beautiful woman, who saw that I was such an adult, and she gave me some of her Turkish Delight.

Strange, I can’t get through the wardrobe anymore.

Sandwiched between two great urban parks, Golden Gate Park and the Presidio, the Inner Richmond is a pastiche of American immigrant life. Irish bars mix with Russian orthodox churches, Vietnamese noodles, Thai and Korean restaurants, with a healthy dose of the ubiquitous Chinese dim sum.

It’s a vibrant community, not nearly as trendy and gentrified as the Mission or Castro, with lots of kids and old people on the streets.

Well, it is a bit overcrowded these days.

Still, Ko Tao is a fabulous place to dive. And it’s all for divers, there. Not much else. It’s been built up unbelieveably since I first went there in 1996, but returning in 2005 I found it friendly and accessible.

Still, if you’re gonna go diving, check for your dive shop carefully. Some of the boats take out lots of people, and you want to make sure that you aren’t in a huge group where all you see is bubbles. Also be wary of equipment… bring your own if you can.

Frankly, the snorkelling around the island is pretty fantastic. There’s a small bay on the very north east corner that had phenomenal snorkelling.

And there’s pretty good phosphorescence in the water if you go swimming at night.

Ah, Takayama…

Where Kyoto overwhelms, Takayama embraces. So isolated that they were able to maintain autonomy from Tokyo and Kyoto even in the most severe times, Takayama has a rich history. And unlike so many places in Japan, the history is pretty well preserved.

Sure, Takayama is touristy, but it is still sleepier than Kyoto. A big advantage if you are visiting Japan in the summer—Kyoto gets no breeze and is incredibly hot. Takayama is still hot, but there is often a breeze coming off the mountains and it gets cooler at night.

The festivals in Takayama (spring and fall) are great events, and worth seeeing, even if it is the most crowded time of year for tourists.

The biggest advantage Takayama has is its manageable size. I actually prefer it to Kyoto. It’s possible to enjoy the city without rushing, or feeling like you’re so far from your hotel you’ll never get back. There’s historical museums, local sake breweries, the famous Takayama ramen (which is to die for, especially after a night out drinking). A couple days for Takayama itself, and then a few day trips to the nearby hot springs, or in the winter, ski slopes.

Local places I should point out:

• Cafe Flore – a great Parisian coffee shop, on the train station side of the river, on the road with the green bridge. The master is super friendly. Expect quality coffee and great jazz.
• Train Bleu – continuing with the French theme. One of Japan’s best bakeries. Seriously, people drive here from all over—check the license plates in the parking lot. The pastries and breads here are phenomenal. How good? Last time I spent $30USD to take pastries home to my friends in Tokyo. At Shin-Yokohama, someone stole my bread.

Easy to get to It’s only 5-6 hours from Shinjuku by bus. If you take the Shinkansen to Nagoya and the Hida Wide View up through Gifu-city, you’re in for an incredibly scenic train ride. Ask for seats on the left side as you head towards Takayama (being mindful that the train reverse directions at Gifu city, so if you start off on the right, it’ll be the left side as you head up to Takayama).

Royal City Avenue (locals just say RCA) is a relatively newly developed area with some great clubs. One of the hottest new clubs is Slim’s with it’s 3 areas for electronica, hip hop, and live music stretching down the block. It’s definitely a place to see and be seen. While not as swank as the clubs along Sukhumvit road, the vibe is also clear of the sex trade and tourists.

The local DJ talent is not great, and some of them have never heard of beatmatching, apparently. Still, the music and the crowd are both ernest. This is the kind of place you should go with Thai friends, and it is a way to experience (reflexively) their interpretation of what the good times are.

It’s impossible not to be a tourist; but if you’re willing to be in the minority and dive into modern Thai culture (and not just the show manufactured for tourists) then this is a good place to visit. You’re gonna have to ask around in order to get here.

If you’re looking for sex, this is not the place.

Chatuchak Weekend market, Jatujak, or as the locals say, JJ Market. Only open Saturday and Sunday, obviously.

It doesn’t have the charm of the floating markets, but it’s a place where regular Thai people head for their shopping. It’s huge, and there are definite finds all through the back alleys. If you need reading material there is a whole section of book shops, where the flotsam of abandoned tourist reading shows up in several languages.

A short hop from the center of town and accessible via Skytrain or BTS.