I visited a friend in southern Anne Arundel County, Maryland-an area we call “South County”-one afternoon a few years ago.
A week later, my house in a sought-after suburb of Washington, D.C., was on the market.
Within three months, I was living in a ramshackle, cottage-style house right on the water. (In between was Hurricane Isabel, but that’s another story.)
I loved that this place is convenient to both Washington and Baltimore, that it’s got some touches of sophistication but is basically ungentrified, that it’s friendly but laid-back.
I can smell the water. The Chesapeake Bay is down the block. In the winter, I have swans on the creek behind the house. Yesterday, there was a blue heron standing, statue-still, in the boat ramp.
I’m not in Deale; I’m in what I jokingly call a suburb of Deale. Deale is where what business there is is located: a small but adequate grocery store, a small library that’s part of the county system (the shelves are stocked pretty well, but you can order books from anywhere in the system), an excellent bluegrass-music store, a lot of marine-related businesses, and a coffee shop that’s become my home away from home.
I am serene and delighted daily.
I don’t want this place to change. Of course, the influx of people like me-people who can overpay for waterfront houses that don’t even have laundry facilities-is changing things. And one thing about areas like this that a lot of people don’t understand: It’s often the yuppie influx that fights for limited growth, whereas the less economically blessed longtime residents are the ones who want the benefits of commercial growth.
But I’m generalizing. And it’s hard to generalize about a place like this. It’s full of independent souls. The library has a surprising number of books on earth-centered religion—right next door to a hardware store with a decidedly right-wing perspective, as evidenced by the newspaper clippings all around. There are as many liquor stores as churches. (Last winter, one of the liquor stores sold airline-sized bottles of booze in a hopper labeled “Deale Flu Shot.”) We have some big-deal politicos and journalists. There are rich horse farms and expensive marinas and plain old houses like the ones most people live in. There are people of all political stripes.
Maryland has been called “America in Miniature.” Deale, in a way, is Maryland in miniature. Come hang out at a waterside bar, sip a drink, smile at friendly strangers. You’ll get why Maryland is also called the Land of Pleasant Living.
Oh, and I didn’t mention the seafood—because I don’t like seafood! That’s OK; they seem to have accepted me anyway.