One of the first things I ever said to my girlfriend when I was getting to know her was that I would take her to Venice. I did as a Christmas present. We went in February which is very cold and not unlike London in its weather.
Arriving at the airport we had a private motor launch to the hotel. We arrived early evening and started to cross the lagoon in a magnificent sunset (all photos can be seen at http://mwhiffen.smugmug.com) and got to the Grand Canal at dusk. From our very first sight of the fantastic canals, beautiful architecture, we were already in love with the place. Our first evening was spent in a champagne reception at the hotel followed by a walk to the Piazza San Marco. What strikes you is the silence. No cars! Just the rumble of the various motor launches and the Vaporetto water buses. The narrow streets and alleys house a myriad of fascinating shops (mostly oriented at tourists) with cafes, restaurants and bars between.
Taking the No 1 Vaporetto on a round trip on the Grand Canal is de rigeur and will introduce you to the many faces of Venice but the only way to navigate your way is to walk. Be prepared to walk almost everywhere and you will be fully rewarded! The small alleys, bridges, courtyards, squares and streets will fascinate and amaze. You feel like you are discovering areas never before seen but don’t be fooled. There is hardly an inch of Venice that has been undiscovered. A trip to the Rialto Bridge will show you the impact of tourism and make sure you know you are not alone. However a trip to the nearby Rialto market will also reassure you that this is not for tourists alone with its bewildering array of fresh fish and vegetable and meat stalls and Venetians haggling over the wares.
The magic of snow hit us three days in and turned Venice into an even more magical place. White crunching underfoot and even more silent than usual. A visit to a bakery/grocery/cafe with the customary espresso and a cake or, later in the day, a spritz with its sweet (or bitter) alcoholic warmth. There is always a welcoming feel to the city despite the fact that tourism saved the city but is also destrying it.
The trick is that when you go there it steals a piece of your heart so you have to return there every so often to feel whole again. That’s the magic of Venice