I don’t think I’m a cranky person but the idea of getting on a boat with 2,000 other tourists being catered by another 2,000 employees and floating multi-stories above the water just isn’t my idea of a vacation. I don’t want to be buffed, fluffed, puffed, or stuffed and the idea of not meeting the locals just closes the door on this travel option for me.

I guess you have to ask the question, “Why do I travel and what do I value from those experiences?” If you ask yourself these same questions, then there is another way to see the real Alaska in a more personal way on the Alaska Marine Highway.

We opted to fly into Juneau ending our travels in Ketchikan with a flight home. Our goals are always to support the local economy whenever possible which means:
#1- eat and drink in family run establishments
#2- charter with small local operators (you won’t believe how many tour companies don’t live in Alaska and have branches across the world.)
#3- Buy products that are made in Alaska. No souvenirs from China until we visit there!
#4- Take care that accommodations are Alaska companies, not world wide chains.

I was horrified to learn that cruise ship operators take what is called a “kick-back” on any shore activity. They also contract with many larger tour operators that serve other cruise locations across the world. This means that the money they make is taken elsewhere while the environment is adversely affected locally.

Your first step in organizing a trip is to research a few guide books and decide which towns you want to visit. Then check the Alaskan Marine Ferry Schedule to link them together. http://www.akferry.org/
The final task is to reserve your accommodations. There are some people who choose to reserve as they go, but you take a chance in summer that the bookings are full.

The advantage of the ferry is that local people travel on it too. We met an archeologist who was in the process of excavating a Stone Age site funded by National Geographic and got to hear about his finds first hand in the dark on deck at 3 a.m. On other boats we met one of the Reindeer Queen’s granddaughters and learned from her first what it means to be a Native in Alaska and a man descended from the Wrangell Island Chief who has retired “from outside” to a life of traditional sustenance living and what it means to live in a community that thrives this way. If you gauge your richest travel moments by the people you meet, this trip was a diamond mine!

We went to Haines, Skagway, Sitka, Wrangall, and Ketchikan, but am sorry that we didn’t visit Glacier Bay.

My “best list” for the inside Passage:
#1) Haines—visit the native Arts center and watch them carve totem poles. There’s a great gift shop for local artists there too. Also don’t miss the Chilkat Dance Troupe. The story-telling by dance was wonderful and the masks are awesome.

2) Skagway—we did the whitepass railroad for the amazing scenery and history, but I’ve heard that the Eagle center raft trip was great at certain times of the year.

3) Juneau—can’t miss the Medenthall glacier or Goldbelt’s tours to Tracy Arm Fjord. If you have time go to the Alaska State Museum if you like Native American culture.

4) Sitka—breeze on by the Bishops house and the church heading to the Sheldon Jackson Museum (the largest collection of priceless Native art that will blow your socks off) and to the totem pole park. In summer, there are artists who sell items from the gift shops in both places. The Tlinget dancers perform at the Native Community House and it was wonderful. Where can I get one of those beautiful ceremonial robes with all the appliqué and beadwork? The Raptor center is a place to get up close and personal with the local big birds.

5) Wrangell—(oh! what a gem little Wrangell is!) The BEST accommodation in Alaska was at Rooney’s Roost. Becky cooks up a full breakfast and I suggest you talk her into making those baked apple pancakes! We enjoyed the Petroglyph beach (go at low tide) and the totem clan house but the BEST tour in all of Alaska was with Eric from Breakaway adventures to LeConte Glacier. The best lunches in Wrangell are from the 4th of July Queen Contestants who sell lunch tickets to raise money for the city. The girl who sells the most raffle and food tickets is the winner! They set up the booths in the downtown area and offer the freshest and best food.

6) Ketchikan—just take a walk around the historic district at Creek Street. The best king Salmon fishing trip was with the boat Fish-N-Sea (Patrick Simmons) and the best lunch was the pizza delivery boat that will come and find you so you don’t have to stop fishing!