20 years ago existed at the edge of reason where you were likely to be surrounded by fisherman, widowers & those who do not wish to be found. won a drinking contest with commercial fishermen just back from some months at sea, found an archive of 75-100 y/o glass slides of the the harbour including docked Irish boats filled with whiskey waiting to slip into the states, spoke in code for 2 nights with some bar owner, fell pretty hard for one of his bartenders who was very sweet. left after 4 days not knowing why i was leaving. Savage beauty at day, very french noirish at night, think Touch of Evil meets Bob Le Flambeur.