I did volunteer work here for about 4 months just after the indonesian military raped and pillaged the place, just after independance. There wasn’t one single East Timorese person who doesn’t know someone who was killed or just vanished. I traveled around a bit on an old motorcycle with no brakes or lights. There are no road rules. I didn’t have to wear a helmet, which was good, but I got a sunburnt head, which was bad. It has very large mountains in the middle of the country, which make for spectacular scenery. I got hassled by the UN Peacekeeping forces a bit, they weren’t expecting any sightseers on dilapidated motorcycles in far flung corners of the country. I almost got in big trouble when I crossed a bridge to the Indonesian border to ask the indo border guys if I could get a photo with them. This big army guy came running over and was yelling and stuff. Apparently the border was closed and I was in danger of being shot or something. When he found out I didn’t have a passport on me it looked like he was going to arrest me. I eventually pursuaded him to hang on to my (Australian) drivers license while I walked over to the indo border guys (playing guitar and snoozing in the sun) to get the photo. When these guys saw the camera they jumped up, put their shirts back on and stood to attention for the photo, it made me laugh. They were just kids really, younger than me at the time.
I saw several places where massacres had happened. Everyone had a gruesome story about something, so much suffering.
I was volunteering with an organisation called the Ryder Cheshire Foundation, who are probably still looking for volunteers if anyone is interested. I went over in early 2001, before elections.
Another thing that amazed me was that you could stop in the middle of nowhere, with absolutely no one around and in 30 seconds there is a crowd of people standing around looking at you. Uncanny. I just don’t understand where they came from.
Go there if you have a chance, it really made me appreciate western luxuries we take for granted.