You can get there cheaply on a ferry (just $2.25/person currently). Many of the tourist businesses are owned/operated/staffed by white North Americans—there’s a good-sized colony of gringos who are enjoying life off the beaten track here. The good thing is that so far there are no chain stores—no Starbucks, Walgreens, McDonalds, Burger King, Wendy’s (though there are plenty of these on the main island of Puerto Rico).

We loved Tamarindo Beach, which we accessed by hiking from Flamenco Beach over the hills through the Luis Peña Nature Preserve. We had this beach all to ourselves on a beautiful November afternoon, & the snorkeling was amazing!