Worth visiting!

caught in a time warp

If you drive to pavement’s end on Quinchao Island (a small island off the east coast of Chiloe Island), you will reach the little time-warped town of Achao.

We happened upon Achao while more-or-less randomly exploring the countryside of Chiloe. Upon reaching the fishing village of Dalcahue (pronounced doll-ka-way), we found a small car ferry servicing the island of Quinchao, and decided to get on board. The ride to Quinchao took all of five minutes!

We joined the island’s main road and followed it to its paved terminus in Achao, arriving just in time for SIESTA! Now…I have traveled quite a bit in southern South America, and I can vouch for the fact that every small town street is vitually deserted between 1 PM and 3:30 PM. But in Achao, the temporarily closed shops and sparsity of human beings coupled with the feeling of being cut off from the technological advancements of the industrial age, giving us the sense of being caught in a time warp. How long had Achao been just like it was that day? ...a hundred years, perhaps…

We walked along the lonely waterfront, upon a sidewalk made of crushed white seashells that squeaked and crunched with each step. Half a dozen small fishing boats were tied up at a small pier, and one fisherman was hauling in his catch.

We walked past the town’s small wooden church, reputed to be the oldest such church in Chiloe. The wooden churches are UNESCO heritage sites, and each is unique.

Driving out of town, we happened upon a fantastic panoramic overlook of Achao, from which we could see the Andes in the distance. There was a small thatch hut/kiosk, from which a local woman was selling handmade items made of woven straw. Being a sucker for this type of stuff, I picked up a straw teacup/saucer and teapot.


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MadameReya, dilettante extraordinaire has gotten 2 cheers on this entry.