It’s not the easiest place to travel, particularly for women—public spaces are very, very male, and gazes are sometimes unfriendly. Also, Americans are becoming less popular by the hour, particularly in the Western parts of the country. Nevertheless, the country, especially Lahore, which is a real gem of a city, offers some great natural and man-made beauty, some spectacular historical and archaeological sites, and some real warmth and hospitality behind a sometimes standoffish exterior.

I would wait at least a year or two before going again, though—I suspect political instability will be problematic in the near future.