Badaling (sp?) is the refurbished part of the wall that they trot the tourists out to. Nixon was here. It’s cute and antiseptic and you can buy an orange soda on the ramparts.

Simatai is much better. The walls are crumbling and the views of Mongolia are great; hundreds of feet up and there’s no guard rail… which is fun but bring boots with traction because the stairs have gotten slick after thousands of years of human feet smoothing them out. Oh, and don’t talk or make eye contact with locals selling postcards unless you plan to buy. They will follow you for MILES, undaunted by your “no thank yous.” The best part is the lift that takes you down from the height of the wall to the waystation in the valley below. The thing is creaky and rickety and definitely could induce the weaker among you to poop your pants.

Go!