I remember arriving in Gdansk on a train from Zakopane…the amber, I remember a lot of amber…and the sculpture, the markets by the dock, and a nightclub that wouldn’t let me in because i had jeans on….in the middle of the afternoon…and there was a bar, with no beer, but endless vodka…queues for bread in the mornings….stayed in Gdynia, caught the ferry to the hel peninsula, swam in freezing water…looking at russia across the bay. Squeezed in the last ferry home….