I was beginning to wonder which of us would tire first of this back-and-forth cheer-bombing. Unfortunately, I’m nearly out of both ammo and targets, so I have no choice but to raise the white flag. Don’t get too relaxed, however: whenever you add a trip, I’ll be there, with a cheer (unless you add Tunisia; I couldn’t possibly cheer that, in good conscience).

The people make Libya a fabulous place to visit. The Libyan mentality is to enjoy all the good, in life, and let the rest be. They put great value on human life and fellowship; everything else comes as a bonus. As a group, they’re amazingly well-adjusted. They don’t do stress. They’re always just happy to be alive, in this glorious world. They smash up their brand new Benzes, on the freeway, and instead of becoming angry and having fits, they say, “Maalesh” (basically, “screw it”), and go on with their lives. This concept of maalesh is a very good one to learn. Part of it is faith. Even when it comes to death, the typical Libyan will accept the will of God, without torturing himself over it.

Are you staying long, and do you know any locals? If you can, be sure to be invited to a wedding, while you’re there. The weddings are seven days long, with an event every night. The family pitches a huge tent, and invites the entire neighbourhood to at least one event. Over the course of the years he worked in Tripoli, my dad was invited to many weddings, in the vicinity of his office. Libyans are like that: even if you’re an unknown worker in a nearby office, you’re their neighbour, and welcome in their houses and at their weddings.

The best event, during the wedding week, is the hannaa-bandoon, at which the bride and guests are painted with henna. Only women are invited; the men have their own do, running concurrently, at the groom’s house. The hannaa-bandoon guests gather, at the bride’s house, at dusk. The groom’s womenfolk turn up, a bit later, with gifts for the bride. Nothing is wrapped up, so everybody sees all the gifts: usually piles of colourful clothes and shoes, and (of course) jewellery. All the jewellery is yellow gold, high carat (usually 22K). Recently married women wear their own wedding dresses to this event. The traditional wedding dress is just a white backdrop to all the gold, which covers the bride from head to foot, literally. The groom accompanies the women of his family. He and the bride are to let their appearance slide, prior to this, so that they may see each other at their worst. The groom then returns to his house, where he is cleaned and shaved, as a part of that event. Meanwhile, the bride is dressed and groomed, at her party. Everyone sits and eats and eats and eats and dances and dances and dances, all night. At dawn, there is a noisy procession, around the neighbourhood. The bride is carried about, as the guests follow and cheer. The men do the same thing, with the groom. There may be many bridal processions, each night. If you lose yours, you can easily find another to join.

The old city and the soogh (bazaar), just outside its walls, are the most interesting places to see, in Tripoli. The shopping at the gold and silver markets is excellent. There’s a good museum, in town, and a lovely, little cathedral, on al Jezireh roundabout. Taking tea at the Grand Hotel (fandak-e kabir) or Al Mahaari (another hotel) is a pleasant way to spend an afternoon. There is also a very good, Lebanese restaurant, across the street from Al Mahaari. The beach in the photo, called Czech Beach, is on the outskirts of Tripoli, a westward drive down the main drag, Gharghaaresh. Leptis Magna and Sabrata are two very well-preserved, Roman ruins, and both worth the short drive from Tripoli.

I hope you have a great trip! I’m sure you’ll have a fantastic time, and I look forward to reading your stories and seeing your photos, upon your return.

I found everyone I met, in Libya, to be warm, generous, joyful, and “softhearted,” as you write. It would be a pleasure to visit, again.