I had the good fortune to live in Riga for a year awhile back, and to return there for long visits for several years. Now I wish I could go back again!
In the past 15 years, since the fall of the USSR, Riga especially, and Latvia, too, have changed so much, trying to catch up with the rest of the West, but what I love there is the tradition.
June is the best time to visit, although it can be rainy or cool, because of the fabulous craft festival held at the Ethnographic Park at the edge of the city each first weekend of June. Hundreds of artisans sell their beautiful baskets, linen wares, amber and silver jewelry, woven shawls and rugs, items of wood, iron, silk, leather, glass and ceramics, all for bargain prices.Later in the month comes the celebration of Ligo, the ancient midsummer’s eve traditional fete. In the countryside, people weave flower wreaths, sing, drink beer, dance around bonfires, and eat special foods, all night until the first rays of dawn, around three a.m.