When I first tasted a Vietnamese po’boy — a BBQ-charbroiled-pork-on-French-baguette sandwich — I was mystified. It was delicious, but the combination of the crusty baguette bread with the meat, mixed vegetables, and soy sauce seemed so — well unVietnamese. Until I remembered of course, that, until the USA moved in and created the morass of the Vietnam War, Vietnam has been a French colony for many, many years. The Vietnamese po’boy is one of the happier results of the French occupation.

And nobody in Houston does them better or cheaper than Les Givral’s. But po’boys aren’t the only thing this restaurant does well. They have a pleasing assortment of appetizers, entrees, and soups.

Don’t let the rather seedy exterior throw you. The interior is clean, just hip enough to be pleasant, and comfortable. Rumor has it the original location is still open at 801 Congress Street, but the Midtown Vietnam-Town location is really convenient to my office and house. Look for it tucked away in the corner, across from the Buo Saigon and the Phnom Phen Tailors.

Check it out. You won’t be sorry.