Here is where I took the ferry to Dubrovnik. Slept on the deck, my baggage intertwined with my body, under a plastic table. The old city is amazing (the new city is crap). Saint Nick is buried there; it is a city of stone, narrow alleyways, arches, coves with shrines to Jesus and Mary full of candles and color in the shadows. I walked past a woman making fresh orichiette. There is also a pizza place there with the milkiest, most amazing pizza of which I have never tasted the like. I drank tequila there on the plaza—simply a magical place.