Response to myself — I just re-read what you said above. If you like quaint, then yes, maybe Sugamo would suit you! There’s not a lot of quaint in Tokyo, but this probably comes closest!
Oh, and if you’ve not been before, you should get up at 3-4am and go to the Tsukiji fish market. They plan to tear it down to make way for the Tokyo Governor’s dream so see it while it’s still there. And make sure you have a sushi breakfast when you go.
Sumago may be on the list!
Yeah, we went to the Tsukiji Fish Market before, but missed the actual auction. We’ll be with friends this time and will go again. This time though, it’ll be karaoke all night – and then to the fish market! Yes – the sushi breakfast is a must – best toro evar!