After visiting the pyramids and sphinx by day, we made a point of returning at night for the son et lumiére. That was 25 years ago. I researched online just now and discovered that the show is still presented. I remember enjoying it. You might also consider going to see the world’s oldest step pyramid at Saqqara, 12 miles south of Cairo. When I was there, oh so long ago, we were at liberty just to wander through the ruins, ogling hieroglyphics. I understand that the new Imhotep Museum has just opened on the site, too.

When you’re in Cairo, you can’t miss the Nile. It is the ribbon of life running through the desert. We went to a hillside Coptic monastery outside of Cairo. Looking back towards the city from that perspective, it was a striking scene. In the foreground stretched rugged desert. At the point marking the end of the irrigation ditches, there was an abrupt line of green. Therebeyond was a succession of bands: a thin strip of green running parallel to the river; next, the Nile itself; next, another thin strip of green on the other side of the river; and then, once again, desert extending all the way to the horizon. Makes me thirsty just writing about it.